Arctic Circle Trail 2018 – Summer Trekking Greenland

Arctic circle trail is a long-distance footpath in Greenland stretching between Kangerlussuaq and Sisimiut. As the name of the trail already signals this remote trek lies just above the arctic circle and even the Arctic circle doesn´t have fixed latitude generally is accepted as 66° 33’N. Depending on where you start this unforgettable expedition will lead you about 160 – 180 km through Greenlandic wilderness. Normally trained trekkers are usually covering this distance in 10-12 days. We did it in 8 days and as per reference local Inuit people are usually doing this “trip” in around 5 days. During this tranquilizing period, you will be exposed to raw nature far away from civilization and careful preparation is absolute must! There can be days when you will not meet even one person, and you need to be absolute self-sufficient for entire trip so be prepared. I´d like to give you in this article complete knowledge and resources to enjoy the trip to maximum and describe a bit our way how we crossed this remote arctic area.

Equipment:

Tent, mattress, sleeping bag: This is absolute must, you never know what happens on the way and what weather you will encounter. Huts along the way can be fully occupied and tenting will be the only way how to survive the night.

Kitchen: If you do not want to eat only nuts and bread on the way I fully recommend to take stove, pot and spoon with you along with dried food to cook some good stuff and boil a tea or coffee on the way. Huts along the way are not staffed and there is no food/kitchen inside.

Maps/GPS: Despite the ACT is very easy to navigate due to most of the time obvious trail you will need definitely at least paper maps or GPS. The Greenlandic Tourist Board made three maps for this hike “Sisimiut“, “Pingu” and “Kangerlussuaq“. I personally relied on GPS which was sufficient, and I prepared for you a map and gpx with basic waypoints so you can open and download. Download Arctic circle trail GPS file HERE. There are many alternative and misleading trails along, so be prepared and careful to not lose the way that could be fatal.

Clothes: Sturdy shoes are must without discussion. Many swamps on Arctic Circle Trail will await you. Long wind and waterproof trousers and jacket are essential. Greenlandic weather is unpredictable and I´m sure you will get some rain in that week of trekking. Gloves and cap will help you to stay warm. Even in summer most of the time will be chilly and strong wind gusts can quickly exhaust you, so I don’t recommend bringing shorts and flip-flops 🙂

Food and drinks: Take enough of dried food you prefer. We didn´t take enough, but luckily, we found some leftovers in huts, but don´t rely on this and staying without food for couple of days trekking can be life threatening situation. you will not meet many others who will have enough to share. Water is everywhere for free and crystal clear. No need of any purification f water. I´ve never seen cleaner water than in Greenland!

Others: Take repellent and Mosquito net!!! Those little annoying guys are everywhere so be prepared they will enter your food, drinks, mouth and nose. In case you go in summer you don’t need any torch you will have light all day long so you can trek 24/7 what a heaven! Take gaiters and be prepared to cross rivers and deep swamps. Trekking sticks can be very useful to check the depth of fords, swamps and just to keep the balance. Cell phone is useless as there is luckily no service, but for GPS is useful. Each trekker must be completely self-sufficient!

28/6/2018 – DAY 0
Kangerlussuaq – Ice cap – Point 660 – Russel glacier

If you want to do the trek properly you should definitely start from the Ice cap! There are not so many ways how to reach the ice cap even the dirt road leading from Kangerlussuaq to Ice cap in its length of approx 30kms is the longest road in Greenland. Well, there are some 4WD cars going that direction taking scientists to the ice cap, but not so many and hitchhiking can be tricky. Going there by foot is an option, but 30 km is way too much. We took a 8WD bus which was doing a day trip to the ice cap, end even we wanted only one way ticket it was for the same price and not the low one. The day tour costs about 625DKK and includes a tea! Tours are held on daily basis and there is no need of booking in advance the town is tiny and you will find the place easily, it´s just outside the airport. The bus took  us all the longest road of Greenland to furthermost point where cars can go until they hit ice wall and the famous point 660. That´s just a place in height of 660 m.a.s.l with magnificent view over endless Ice cap. On the way back we stopped the bus and jumped out of it along with voices of amazement of fellow bus tourists. It was not long hike to the edge of Russel Glacier where we stood absolutely stuck speechless only staring at a massive blue ice wall time after time cracking huge mass of ice along with deafening sound like thunderstorm. Great movie to watch for dinner which was filled with mosquito proteins.

29/6/2018 – DAY 1
Russel galcier –  Kangerlussuaq – and more

Woken up by a noise of falling ice and due to time shift and everlasting light the trek started at 5 a.m. along the Russel glacier down to the dry riverbed Orkendalen which is pronounced as a driest place of Greenland and also called “Arctic desert” despite it was drizzling constantly. It was mind-blowing to cross at least 5km wide sandy riverbed Orkendalen being alone as far as eye can see getting closer to Kangerlussuaq with each step. It was a long hike, but after a quick supper we decided to continue the hike at least to the beginnig of ACT trail. No other way than just going west on the tarmac road along Søndre Strømfjord watching landing planes. Couple of cars passed by, but hitchhiking seems doesn´t work. At the end of the road, we turned right passed the satellites in Atmospheric research center and reached the grassy path. Finally, out of the reach of cars and civilization and reached ACT. The camp was built very soon near by the lake after over 40kms of walk.

30/6/2018 – DAY 2
ACT start – Kattifik

Sunny morning, hot arctic air, T-shirts, no mosquitos, narrow wild route passing around many marble blue lakes divided by low grassy passes. Lovely views multiplied by deep blue sky. It was so hot, that we couldn´t resist and take a bath in a nearby lake. Not cold rather refreshing. Soon we reached the hunter´s hut. Made of caravan and some wood. Strange how could someone bring a caravan, boat and material to build a hut through this unpassable terrain for most of vehicles. Maybe in winter? Anyway, this hut can be used as a overnight place as there are some beds and no one around. After that place the relief started to be wavier and heavy backpack could be felt even more. We were halfway through as the target was to reach the Kattifik hut and soon the good weather turned into windy inferno with drizzle. Just a proof that the weather changes rapidly. After steep descend to Kattifik hut we had a unpleasant surprise as we met first trekkers on the trail, but actually not on the trail, but in the hut. Tent again?

1/7/2018 – DAY 3
Kattifik – Canoe center

As already predicted yesterday we woke up to a rainy day. Strategically waited till the hut gets empty and got inside for a breakfast and to pack the things in dry environment. We haven´t found any canoes and in this windy weather and it wouldn´t be even funny as we´ve heard a story about a girl who was paddling alone on the canoe when the wind and rain came. Water filled her boat, and she was not able to paddle against a strong wind and after a struggle she got out frozen completely wet and exhausted, but survived… So, we were actually lucky to go by foot on the shore of Amitsorsuaq lake approximately 20km on more or less leveled path just jumping over stones. Everlasting rain and cold was forcing us to reach the next hut quite quickly. Fortunately, this Canoe center hut was huge and empty so we could spent a night inside reading a hut book and it´s stories while enjoying view over the lake.

2/7/2018 – DAY 4
Canoe center –  Ikkattooq Hut –  Equalugaarniarfik

Another weather turnover overnight and this one was exceptional. Super calm lake as a mirror, blue sky, silence, sunbeams warming us up from the early morning and metal canoe waiting for us on the shore of the lake. I took a test ride alone and I´ve experienced something really new. I´ve never ever seen such a crystal clear water that I could see as deep at 10 meters. This fact was evoking a strange feeling of being scared to fall, like a fear from heights, even the water could hold the canoe, but such a deepness was never seen before in a water. Let´s hope Greenland won´t ever be polluted and keep it´s pristinity. We boarded the canoe and continued about two kilometers to the western edge of the lake enjoying the mirrored mountains reflected in the calm lake. Pity we couldn’t paddle all day long. Goodbye canoe and let´s continue a swampy path towards the next lake Tasersuaq, where is no canoes unfortunately. From there the trail started to ascent to the close ridge and the trail became harder and harder. First big ascent was done and after reaching Ikkattooq hut we were granted by rewarding views on the lake. It was already a long day, but due to narrowing food resources we decided to continue and not to take the. After couple of kilometers, we were amazed by another breath taking sunset over the lower swampy valley. There was no choice than going down to the valley. We continued the trail, but soon came to quite wild river with strong current which we had to cross, but how??? It was not the best idea to start crossing with all the backpacks which we wanted to keep dry. We continued along the river in a muddy wetland trying to find some way to cross, but without any result. We were slowly losing the hope preparing for a cold shower, but then we spotted a great wooden bridge over the river (The new bridge is marked in the map and GPS file). It was not long to reach the next hut, where is no water around. If you plan to overnight here, bring the water there! Some Australian guys were there so we were forced to sleep outside, at least they left a water outside so we could steal some… A long day around 34 kms.

3/7/2018 – DAY 5
Equalugaarniarfik  – Innajuattup hut

After a long sleep we woke up so late that the hut was empty, and luckily, we found there some leftover food. Because we were really running short on food, we took two bags of dried food which saved us till the end of the trip. Ascent from the Equalugaarniarfik hut was exhausting and the views over the frozen lake didn´t really filled us with more enthusiasm. What to say the caloric shortage took its tax. Going down to the lake and passing first snowy field with exhausting fighting with swampy path led us to the first Innajuattup hut. It was empty, and a little bit tired we decided to stay here not only for the great views also for the oil heating which was functional, and soft mattresses justified the decision. Today “only” 18 kilometers, but wonderful!

4/7/2018 – DAY 6
Innajuattup 1 hut – Nerumaq hut – camping site

All clothes dried and again lovely morning weather and I can say maybe the most beautiful nature on ACT. Again, mirror lake and sun beams. Close to the hut there was another bigger one Innajuattup 2 hut. And close to that one we were forced to ford a river. Cold as hell even a minute in this cold river resulted in deep pain in feet and the entire house on our backs was only multiplying the pain. Fortunately, only once. passing around beautiful lake with islands was mind satisfying. Unfortunately, local ever-present swamps destroyed my boots which were really old and started to harm my heel quite badly, but we are only 2 days away from the goal, so I have to suffer hard last 40 kilometers. We reached quite quickly Nerumaq hut in a narrow valley, but fully occupied, so we felt motivated to continue. over swampy paths. In the end we were lucky and found nice place to tent after marching 23 kms.

5/7/2018 – DAY 7
camping site – pass camp site

First half of the day was leading us through the narrow swampy valley crossing twice the river. After that crossing, we found out there is a way to go on the river bank without crossing, but at least we had some fun when the weather was good. Swampy valleys with river revealed us a life inside rivers and trouts could be seen just having a good time. Reindeers accompanying us on the way to the pass from which we could see the Fjord. That was the moment when we realized we are close to the shore and as well to the civilization. That didn’t made us happy, but already couple of huts along the shore could be seen as it´s easier to reach those places by boat. Nice remote summer houses indeed. Because the next hut was again occupied, we continued to the pass where we could see some kind of hut, so we were going up looking forward to sleep in dry, but unfortunately that place was only a toilet. Seems that this pass is popular among locals to celebrate and enjoy nature, not only because the toilet, but also the mess around. We´ve built the tent here because the view to the fjord was picturesque.

6/7/2018 – DAY 8
pass camp site – Sisimiut

Last day in front of us not the longest, but maybe the hardest. Starting a day by crossing freezing snowy fields with swamps and rivers, after that quite difficult descent down to the valley to cross one wide river. Soon at another pass we found a skiing lift which is an undeniable sign of civilization and indeed it was. just a few kilometers of descent down to reach Sisimiut. We were welcomed from far by a dog barking as in Greenland there are reportedly double amount of dogs than people and really last two kilometers we were licked and welcomed by dogs and almost we were convinced that Sisimiut is a town of dogs, but after some more steps we reached tarmac road, saw buses and people, houses and supermarket with an ice-cream. Sisimiut is the second largest city in Greenland, but still only 5500 people and very pleasant. We found a guesthouse with the shower and went out to find some fun.