HRP – Haute Randonnée Pyrénéenne is an exceptional long-distance route leading along the peaks of the Pyrenees. The 800 km route through the highest peaks and the most beautiful corners of this mountain range. A path leading from the Atlantic ocean to the Mediterranean Sea through the regularly crossing borders between France, Spain and Andorra. Thanks to the difficult navigation and the demanding terrain of the route, strong experiences, solitude and harmony with nature are guaranteed. Come and experience this 35-day long march with us.
3/7/2012 – Day 0
ČR – FR Hendaye
We left Prague by bus and enjoyed a slightly demanding, but in the end bearable 14-hours journey to Paris. A ticket without a seat reservation certainly offers advantages, especially if you manage to grab a two-seater and defend it for the duration of the journey, sleep, even if it’s fake, will be enough 🙂 At 8:25 we board the TGV towards Hendaye. I expected a bit more from 2nd class, there’s very little space and expected electrical outlet is nowhere to be found. I’m not complaining, it’s clean, we’re going fast and the panoramas are great. The last third of the journey looks like the TGV is turning into an ordinary express train and driving accordingly and stopping where it can. We arrive in Hendaye safely.
4/7/2012 – Day 1
Hendaye – Col d´Ibardin
Only a few dozen people get off the originally stuffed train at the final station. There are also a few backpackers, but we have the biggest backpacks of all. So we put them on our still rested backs and headed towards the beach – the ocean. It’s really hot, but none of us like additional salt on our sweating bodies, so none of us is jumping into the ocean. We enjoyed the view for a while, but since it’s already quite late, we set off on the legendary route called HRP. We´re stocking up on supplies at the local market and set off through picturesque streets into the Pyrenean wilderness. After about 16 km over two saddles, the road takes us to the Basque-French border, where the Col d’Ibardin pub should apparently be. After 8 p.m., we find only a ghost town. Everything is closed and, except for a few people in caravans, there is hardly any soul here. We find a pleasant-looking garden with a tarpaulin roof and large tables. Perfect for sleeping, but only until the local security guard shows up and explains with gestures that we really won’t be camping anywhere here. So we finish our dinner and move to look for a place for the tents elsewhere. We find a spot under the trees, as it has started to rain quite heavily. For now, we make fun of it. Eva and Honza are setting up their professional tent while I’m investigating how this borrowed, half-dilapidated shelter is actually set up. After a while of torment, I’m also done and I fall asleep excited about my first day at HRP.
5/7/2012 – Day 2
Col d´Ibardin – Ordoki
In the morning we wake up to the rain and set off towards the summit of La Rhune (900m). The rain alternates with drizzle until about 2 pm. Due to the nice weather, we decide not to climb to the summit of La Rhune, but to shorten our journey directly to the Col de Lizuniaga. From the Col de Lizuniaga we climb to the Col de Nabarlatz, where we enter Spain for the first time. We continue, exhausted in our soaked jackets, over the Col de Bagacheta to the town of Ordoki, where we end the second stage according to Honza’s watch with 32 km. Let’s hope that the weather will be wiser tomorrow, and that instead of fog and mud, we will also see the beauties of the Basque Country and the description of the stage will hopefully be more colorful.
6/7/2012 – Day 3
Ordoki – Les Aldudes
In the morning I wake up in a bivouac bag, because I really didn’t feel like building my antediluvian shelter in the evening. I would almost say that it is the first successor to the A-shaped tent. The sky is cloudless, so Honza and I jump into the stream where we camped. We pack our things and before we knew it, we are in Arizkun. Here you can buy supplies of plasters, because Honza’s Meindls have eaten away his little finger. There are no better German boots than high-quality ones, right, Honza? Then we set off on the traditional HRP route = an unmarked path trodden here and there by goats or sheep, or tourist, figure it out as best you can. A very beautiful walk, all around us is greenery and horses, sheep and goats and not a single living thing anywhere. At the end of today we go down to the town of Les Aldudes, where we meet the participants of the “TransPyr 2012” cycle race. Quite the hardcore bikers who travel about 800km in 8 days with 20,000 meters of elevation gain. In Les Aldudes we break local records in the amount of beer consumed. Not only are the French unable to understand why we want a half-liter beer, but three at once is not enough there even in a week. In the evening we camp in a local meadow, where the local old lady sent us. Since the clouds are chasing each others above us, I decide that it will be better to set up my antediluvian tent (thanks to Omikk for lending it). In the evening a bottle of Bordeaux, some beer in a pint and a propper dinner. After we have had a little drink with Honza, the first and legendary Frenchman we saw comes running up, who immediately brags that the HRP will be completed in 28 days, but we will write about him later 🙂
7/7/2012 – Day 4
Les Aldudes – Refugio Izandorre
A steep climb awaited us right from the morning! We joked about that slope last night and the next morning we were ascending it up nicely. Again, in the spirit of HRP, i.e. unmarked, from one saddle to another. At the end of the day, I counted a total of 5 saddles that we successfully crossed. We also climbed our highest peak so far, Rediute de Lindux (1220m), and thus also crossed the one thousand meter mark. After descending to the Roncevaux saddle (1057m), in the vicinity of which we originally wanted to bivouac, everything was different. It was still relatively early and we didn’t feel like bivouacing in a saddle next to the road. That’s why we swallowed another 500 meters of altitude during which we were caught by a light cloudburst. We swung over the Port de Cize saddle (1430m) to the Izandorre refuge, a small building with two raised areas for sleeping. I forgot to mention that this route is widely used by pilgrims heading to Santiago de Compostela. We are taking shelter from the bad weather in the Izandorre refuge because it is again ugly outside and we cannot see even 20 meters. Suddenly, a soaked pilgrim runs into the refuge, soaked to the bone, greets us in nice English with a Czech accent and arranges to spend the night together in the Izandorre refuge. The Škoda logo on his cap tells us that he is our compatriot, and he is. Jirka was a very inspiring person, with whom I share freshly cooked rice with tuna and we lie down on the concrete floor to sleep together. During the evening, a German named Marcel arrives, who is also traveling to Santiago with his feet stuck together. To make the situation worse, at night we are woken up by the Spanish police looking for a wandering limping German. Fortunately, Marcel is not limping, so the guards leave to search further and let us sleep in peace.
8/7/2012 – Day 5
Refugio Izandorre – Chalet Pedro
In the morning, two more policemen arrived in a jeep looking for the same lost German again. He is said to have short curly hair and is limping. Unfortunately, they were unsuccessful for the second time. After the morning group photo, we all say goodbye and each set off on our own path. It was easy walk until we reached Col d’Errozaté (1076m), but then there was unprecedented snowstorms, followed by another descent into the valley along the river, where we all washed ourselves for the first time in five days and washed our sweaty rags. The ascent to Egurgui (1247m) is a pleasant climb through pastures full of special mushrooms that are probably inedible. Unfortunately, due to exhaustion and inconsistent reading of the guide, we got lost and the journey to the Pedro chalet was extended by a good 5-7 km. The vision of a hot meal disappeared in the fog, because after arriving at the Pedro chalet, the staff had already left and the chalet was closed. Another backpack-friendly dinner and camping in a pleasant spot surrounded by a herd of horses.
9/7/2012 – Day 6
Chalet Pedro – Port de Larrau
A heavy downpour washed us away at night and in the morning we are woken up by the bells of local cows going to pasture around our tents. After a light breakfast we set off for Col Bagargui, where there should be a restaurant, but there is nothing anywhere, just a few closed new buildings. We take advantage of the nice weather and stretch out in the sun for a good hour, trying to dry out our sleeping bags, which were damp from the previous night. Unfortunately, our supplies are running low and for lunch I only eat a few nuts and begging as much as I can from others. So we set off disappointed. After less than two kilometers we came across the restaurant mentioned by the guide. Menu: salad, confit duck with pasta and Basque pie to finish. With full bellies we set off into the fog and cross several saddles. Then we climb to the highest peak of the day, which was the first two thousander on the HRP – Pic d’Orhy (2017m). A few meters below the summit we reach the top of the clouds, where we have breathtaking views of other mountain peaks higher than 2000 m in inversion. At the top we experience a beautiful sunset. Unfortunately we have to go back down into the clouds and the weather is deteriorating quickly. At dusk we descend through a few technical sections to the saddle, where the weather is already bad – wind, cold, fog. We set up tents in the Port de Larrau saddle. Unfortunately, I can’t set mine up under the onslaught of heavy rain and it is necessary to weigh it down with stones. I experienced a sleepless night with my ass in a puddle. The gloom persists until morning and I pray in the cramped space of the broken tent for dawn to come.
10/7/2012 – Day 7
Port de Larrau – Ref. De Belagua
After a sleepless night in a half-dilapidated tent, I realized that this was the last night in this tent. Considering that I still have at least thirty days of travel ahead of me, these are not very good prospects. Well, I lift my ass out of the puddle and make some tea. I pack and my backpack is suddenly at least 3 kilos heavier. It has been drizzling all day and there is no way to see the Col de Bimbalette. Everyone has their own pool in their shoes, which helps maintain the microclimate in their shoes so that the mushrooms thrive. From the sounds of cow and sheep bells, I deduce that we are somewhere in shepherds’ territory. We continue to Port d’Ourdayté, from where we descend in the fog to an abandoned hotel that looks like a haunted house, which fortunately the clouds avoid and we bathe in the sunlight. Of course, we unpack the contents of our backpacks and dry ourselves. We are quite an attraction for passing cars and some even stop and take pictures of these Pyrenean endemits. We end the day at the abandoned Refugio de Beldgua, which is another haunted house, where we fall asleep a little wildly inside, but it is dry and warm compared to outside…
11/7/2012 – Day 8
Ref. De Belagua – Lescun
Today we await crossing of the Col d’ Anaye saddle (2011m) and the subsequent descent to the village of Lescun, finally civilization and a warm shower. But I’m getting ahead of myself, it’s not only high up, but also far away to the saddle! Moreover, Honza and I underestimate the water reserves and, still did not get accustomed to the local absence of water sources, we go almost completely without water. Fortunately, we find a snow plate a little below the saddle. We don’t worry too much about the quality of the snow and I melt it right away and there is plenty of watersuddenly! Despite the dryness, the valley is beautiful and is highlighted by limestone walls covered with pine trees. From the saddle, the path breaks and we start to descend. Here is a very pleasant point, Source de Marmitou, where a spring gushes out of the ground, where we replenish lost fluids. 1000m lower we descend to the Plateau de Sanchèse (1090m). The lower we are, the worse the weather is, from the sunny side, to the cloudy, drizzling and winter where visibility is max. 40m. From the plateau, it’s only a short walk along dusty roads to the village of Lescun (900m). Eva chooses a beautiful accommodation and is lucky, both food and bedding are invaluable in the rain after eight days of walking. In the town of Lescun, I find an old grandmother who only speaks French, but I skillfully explain to her that I know she has – the homemade milk and cheese. It doesn’t take long for the grandmother to understand and sell me a delicious local specialty. At dinner, we meet an Australian who is doing the same thing as us, we probably won’t see him for the last time. After dinner, Honza announces that he will leave us and go home. I understand his decision because the sight of his little fingers torn to pieces was really unpleasant. Unfortunately, we will continue only with Eva.
12/7/2012 – Day 9
Lescun – Pla d´Espélunguére
The fun is over! In the morning, Honza leaves us with sore little fingers and we set off after an unpleasant diarrhea after excellent local unpasteurized milk towards new adventures. A beautiful sunny day and a pleasant ascending path led us through pastures where pigs were munching up to the Col d’Pau saddle (1934m). Here we met our Australian friend Gilbert again. On the way from Col d’Pau to Ref. d’Arlet we walk +/- along on the leveled path with beautiful views under the azure sky, we meet classically grazing Pyrenean horses and donkeys and tell stories with Gilbert. We overcome the last few meters of altitude to the hut without any problems, where a well-deserved reward awaits us – beer. Today’s entire journey led to the territory of the Occidentales National Park. According to Mr. Joosten (the author of our guide), this is where we should have ended, but we take the initiative to continue after a light lunch. We say our last goodbyes and take photos with Gilbert and set off over the Col d’Lapachouaou to the Pla d’Espélunguére plateau, where we set up a bivouac and share our travel experiences at dusk.
13/7/2012 – Day 10
Pla d´Espélunguére – Ref. De Piombie
We were up at 7:00 in the morning and something told me that today would be a tough day. And it was! Right after the morning, a nourishing hike to Pass de l´Echélle – elevation gain of about 370m in 50 minutes, which was quite joyful 🙂 Here we had a view of the beautiful typically Pyrenean rocks at the foot of which the Lac d´Estaens lake bubbled. Unfortunately, on the way down, we packed up a little and found ourselves somewhere completely different from what we had planned. We climbed somewhere on the road near the parking lot. Fortunately, a couple of French people took pity on us in the terrible heat and took us on a trail. I was quite embarrassed, because I was drying stinky socks on a bag, so they probably enjoyed the trip with us to the fullest 🙂 We climbed to Col du Somport, which was the border between Spain and France, a pleasant almost hurricane was blowing here. We serve beer here in combination with ice cream and nuts. After a nutritious lunch, we set off on the hot road to the famous ski resort of Astun. We continued in the sweltering heat along the slopes to the Col de Moines pass. From here there was a breathtaking view of the beauties of the Pyrenees – Pic du Midi Ossau. The journey down to the valley was very pleasant with a fresh breeze. Here we had a snack – unfortunately, the local cheeky donkeys robbed us of all our fruit supplies, so we were left with only nuts and chocolate. We managed the climb to the Col de Peyreget saddle very quickly, accompanied by the whistle of marmots. On the way, we overtake guys in half-boots who are struggling in the difficult scree. We descend to the Piombie hut almost at dusk. The hut looks beautiful from afar, but unfortunately, like most local refuges, it has no spirit. Huts in the Pyrenees seem to me bland, unsalty, without history, built for tourism only. I was constipated all day, unfortunately I have no idea what the French have in common with the Turks, but even when I push myself to the toilet I have to stay still on my legs 🙂 In the evening, a classic loop – beer, tent and sleep…
14/7/2012 – Day 11
Ref. De Piombie – Ref. du Larribet
In the morning when I stick my nose out of the tent I see fog, slush, wet and I feel the cold. I quickly cook Chinese soup and about a liter of hot coffee to start. I don’t understand where Eva drains the moral to wake me up every day at six in the morning, she is simply an immortal aunt. We roll down the valley to the road. From here, a short climb of about 900m awaits us to the Col d’Arrius. On the way we overtake a bus of enthusiastic pensioners climbing through the fog to the saddle. On the way we catch up with the “runner” Our nice guy who already lied to us in Les Aldudes that he would give us the HRP in 28 days. Unfortunately, nothing will happen, I overtake him with a 20kg backpack and without poles. Well, he almost lost his nerves. On the saddle I make tea, dry my sleeping bag and wait for Eva with a breathtaking view of the surrounding walls. The path continues along a narrow path flanked on one side by a deep precipice and on the other side by amateurishly attached chains. The French should probably go to the Alps or the Tatras to see how secured paths are built. At Ref. Arrémoule by the lake we drink beer, take pictures of the snowfield and eat nothing but nuts. My legs are giving out from the hut on Col du Palas. The path directly to the Port du Levédon saddle leads through the snowfield and the last few tens of meters of elevation gain is quite solid climbing. I take the position of the first climber and after a moment of fear we stand at today’s highest point – I am amazed. I lost Eva on the way down but in the end it turned out that she had just taken a different route. At the hut we chat with the Belgian Renault and get Belgian chocolate for goodnight.
15/7/2012 – Day 12
Ref. du Larribet – Ref. Wallon
Beautiful awakening to a snow-covered landscape with temperatures around zero. I have dreams at night that I’ve already left for somewhere and won’t make it to the start in the morning 🙂 Standard in the morning – soup, coffee. On the way down we go with the Belgian Renault, who confides in us about his life. At the bottom we are finishing our supplies because the climb up will be hard! First a zigzag and then an endless traverse through the valley to Port de la Peyre-Saint-Martin, where we touch the Spanish border, but then straight back to France on a brutal scree climb up to Col de Cambales. We ran up it at a pretty decent speed. At the top I eat dried apricots that I got as a gift from Eva. But after about half an hour it becomes clear to me why I got them – Shit of an unimaginable nature repeating itself endlessly. After an hour of shitting it stopped, but Eva was nowhere to be found. I started to get scared and we went looking for her – the phones were off and there was no sign of Eva. Frightened, calling her name into the valley without response, I finally received an SMS that she was walking the Renault completely wrong. Not to mention that she had a GPS and a map. So the helicopter call did not take place and we happily met at the Wallon chalet, where we deservedly booked a night under the roof in a bed with full service and food. Thank God for the gifts – Whiskey, beer, food. How little is enough for happiness 😀 We meet the Italian Carlo here, who has already walked through Spain from corner to corner.
16/7/2012 – Day 13
Ref. Wallon – Gavarnie
I seriously misunderstood Eva in the morning when she dragged me out of bed again at 6:00 – OUT OF THE BED!!!. Well, bread with jam, coffee, tea and just peace and warmth at the table – invaluable after a week of sleeping in a tent. At 7:30 we are already on the road and climbing to the Col d’Artaille saddle. On the way, Carlo – a skinny tattooed Italian catches up with us… I catch up with him and despite the fact that he has half a backpack and weighs about 65kg, even with the bed, we race together at a killer pace to the peaks. We continue to chase each other, trying to see who can last until Col des Mulets. From here down to the refuge des Oulettes de Gaube, where we squeeze an omelette into each other. From the hut there are breathtaking views of the glacier flowing down from Vignemale. I finally feel like I’m in the mountains. After a short break we fly up to Horquette de Ossaue where we drop our backpacks and climb gently to the first Pyrenean three thousander, Petite Vignemale. Here a few photos and then sprint down to Ref. d´Baysellance, where Eva is already waiting for us with a beer. We refill our water and head back down to the valley… At the local Barrage d´Ossoue dam I take off my shoes and dip my hot body in the cool, clear water. Here we are caught up by the Belgian Renault, with whom I chat all the way to the dream town of Gavarnie. Gavarnie is a beautiful tourist town where we stay in the Gite d´Etape and they feed us very heartily. Soup, paella, salad, desserts are yummy. Here we meet another Belgian couple, Herlinde and Glenn, they are very nice people and give us biscuits made by themselves (Norwegian tour bread) full of energy. My heels came off in the shower last night and I can’t feel my feet, but otherwise we are very satisfied with the accommodation under the duvet and on the soft mattress.
17/7/2012 – Day 14
Gavarnie – Cabane d´Aguillous
In the morning, after a delicious breakfast, we say goodbye to the Belgian couple and head to the local shop to buy supplies for the next week in the inhospitable mountains without resources. I overdid it a bit, because I feel like I’m carrying an elephant on my back. We ride from Gavarnie up to Ref. des Espueguettes with the whistling of marmots and a view of Tallon, where the longest Pyrenean waterfall is said to be. Carlo has escaped from us in the meantime, which didn’t bother us that much, and we climb together with Eva to the next saddle, Horquette d’Allans, where I fed the donkeys apples that I carried all the way here with the sweat of my face. I wish the donkey a good appetite. Down from the saddle to the Lac des Gloriettes dam, it’s easy. Here we meet a runner who is already well behind his ambitious plan. The road to Héas is a real test of morale, the temperature is about 30 C and the hot road doesn’t help… But HRP is for the brainless and we are actually here to surpass ourselves. The famous phrase “the easy way leads to hell” is really true. In Héas we sit in a pub for a beer and an ice-cream. We finish our supplies before the pub and rest in the shade. We decide to continue further and set off past the local campsite. there the runner had already pitched tent. At the Cabane d’Aguillous we learn that it is just a shepherd’s hut, with no access for travelers. So we set up our tent in a beautiful place. In my opinion, probably the most beautiful place we have camped so far. I would die for this place. The whole plateau just for us and chamois grazing in the distance.
18/7/2012 – Day 15
Cabane d´Aguillous – Passo de los Caballos
Like every morning at 6 a.m. on our feet. Coffee, soup and attantion! So much as 4 chocolate pieces. We pack up and set off as soon as possible so that a runner doesn’t catch up with us. Also that the pleasant heat doesn’t overtake us again like yesterday at Héás. The whole time up to the saddle there is a pleasant shade with 12C. Unfortunately, immediately after climbing the Horquette de Héás it started again – hot like hell, sweat in our eyes and dirty words on our tongues. At 9:00 it was already a beautiful 24C, which will probably be at one and I should point out that we are at an altitude of around 2500m above sea level. On the way to Ref. Barroude it is fucking HOT. At the hut we rest and have a beer looking at the climb to Port de Barroude. The arid hillside! it is more than clear to me that this will be another of those worse hills. From the saddle we have to descend down to 1100 m above sea level. The landscape changed from water-filled valleys to a parched wasteland with coniferous trees here and there. Suffering and suffering, on the way down the thermometer shows 31C. I’m already looking forward to winter when I go to sleep in a snow ditch :D. On the way down a runner passes us and laughs at us, idiot, that we have heavy boots. Down by the road we decide to continue. The question is, what happens when climbing 1000m with about 15-18 kg backpack in 36 C? A person sweats about 6 liters of sweat, drinks about 5 liters of water, feet splash in that salty slush. I don’t know if I’m a weak, but this is really too much. We arrived at Passo de los Caballos at 20:00 and it’s still 26 C. I find new blisters on my feet. I’ll step on them again tomorrow anyways. We find a small stone hut to sleep in and there we have a small gift – a pet bottle with a very special content – Whiskey!!!
19/7/2012 – Day 16
Passo de los Caballos – Ref. de la Soula
Today we wake up relatively late, at 7:30. I realize that I have already lost quite a bit of weight, it must be the diet. On average, I eat 1x Chinese soup, 1/4 baguette, 50g cheese, 50g salami, 20g nuts, 3-5 chocolate cubes, sometimes an apple a day. Now we should stay on the Spanish side for a few days, which is good. The French have been irritating me lately. At 10 am, it is a very pleasant 27 C again. Everything here smells of bushes and cicadas are chirping. After we have descended into the valley, we pass by a children’s camp, where it smells beautifully lie freshly made food. I would like to hop in there and eat their supplies. I restrain myself and climb to Ref. Viados, where we get a beer for 3.50 E and chat with a Dutchman who is doing the GR10. From the Viados hut there is a beautiful view of Posets (3371m), which is the second highest mountain in the Pyrenees. Unfortunately, our path does not lead over the peak. After a short break, we set off for the Port d’Aygues Tortes saddle. The path coincidentally led through a stream and a scree field and a strong wind was blowing on the saddle. Here I run out of energy and discover that I have very little food to last me another five days. I wait for Eva to arrive and we descend. The path is tiring all the way to Ref. de la Soula. This place is really disgusting – a hydroelectric power plant that makes a mess and the ref. is really disgusting. We set up a tent and agree that we are both exhausted and that we would like to sleep at the hut tomorrow and gain energy for the difficult stages that await us in the coming days.
20/7/2012 – Day 17
Ref. de la Soula – Ref. Portillon
Eva wakes up suspiciously late in the morning, is she finally tired? I hope she won’t chase me like a goat again. While packing the tent, the wind took it away and I was chasing down the valley. After packing all my things, Eva sets off briskly, but I don’t feel like it. So I go to see the ugly refugia de la Soula, where I buy a beer and read the local chronicle. On the way up, my muscles, stripped of all glycogen, don’t feel like walking at all. So I take pictures of the local fauna and flora, especially frogs, spiders, bugs, grasshoppers, etc. etc. The 1100m elevation gain took me a terrifying 5 hours. The path changed from a grassy path to a scree field and the Col des Gourgs-blance saddle was climbed along a glacier. On this saddle I met another runner who was quite eloquent today, he even greeted me and mumbled something in his broken Anglo-French. We chased each other until the next saddle, Tusse de Montarque, where I was first and since I wanted to shorten the distance and reach the refuge first and not lose face, I chose a freeride descent. We did get down to the dam earlier, but then we realized that I had gone a little off the track. Eva was probably already at the cottage enjoying a beer by this time, while I was struggling with the rock. We wanted to go down to the water and then follow the shore to the dam. Well, what a good plan, but on the way down I hit a huge rock about 50-100 vertical meters. I climbed down until there was no way back. With fear in my eyes I tried to climb down the rock. Every loose stone flying down reminded me of the height I was at and clearly demonstrated my imminent fall. For a while I hung by my hands, my feet slapping in the air and looking for support. Using a system of two fixed points (sometimes maybe just one) I managed to climb down to the scree in a cold sweat. It was probably the hardest climb we have ever undertaken, with a backpack and almost involuntarily. But at the dam I find out that I have to go up again to the path that goes around the rock and leads to the refuge. So this time I climb back up to the path, taking an easier one. I quickly rush to the hut because it is already late and I am afraid that I will not make it to dinner. At the Portillion refuge Evča, Carl and their new friend from Switzerland are already waiting for me. For dinner there is a hearty lentil soup, sausages and dessert. Well, I just love Spain, even though one of the elders there slandered us for not speaking Spanish. At night we sleep in a room with a runner and the main thing was that we slept in a bed!!!
21/7/2012 – Day 18
Ref. Portillon – Plan d´Aiguallut
In the morning I met a motivated Carlo at breakfast, who urged me to go climb Pic Perdiguére with him. I take Carlo’s words to heart: “If You wanna be a professional, You must eat like a professional!” After a hearty breakfast – bread with jam and about a liter of hot chocolate – we set off in inversion weather towards Pic Perdiguére (3222m). Eva took the less difficult option via the saddle. The path to the Col Supériur de Literole was technically demanding in the scree. From the saddle there was a beautiful view of the valley, where clouds were flowing into the valley over the opposite ridge – a paradise on earth to see. From the saddle we climb the ridge of Pic Perdiguére. Carlo is classically afraid, so I lead him and act as the first climber. At the summit we made a summit picture and a few photos, as this is the highest mountain we are climbing on the entire HRP route. Some French guy ran out here in his shoes – he probably doesn’t like his ankles very much… On the way down the beautiful but not very safe ridge we meet two Spanish girls – Catalans, who are classically much prettier than French ones. Down by the lake we rest for a while and climb to Portal de Remune. From here we ran down through a snowfield and scree to Hospital de Benasque, where Eva was already waiting for us. We have lunch of bread and potato pancakes for an unchristian price (despite the fact that we are in Spain). Maybe because the starting point is Pico de Aneto – the highest peak in the Pyrenees. There are as many people here as on Wenceslas Square Prague, everyone has great equipment, crampons, ice axes… We set off for the Plateau below Pico de Aneto, where we set up camp. Since Carlo did not have a tent, he had to go a few hundred meters up to the refuge under a roof with an uncertain result, as there were really no tourists climbing Aneto. In the evening I cook soup and in coldr we´re falling asleep.
22/7/2012 – Day 19
Plan d´Aiguallut – Port de Rius
The morning at the moment we got out of the sleeping bag, it was about 5 C. And in the distance we can already see Carlo wandering around. It is quite clear that he is looking for us. A quick breakfast and we set off. On the way, young marmots and their parents were posing for my camera (see gallery). The way up was painful due to the lack of carbohydrates, and on top of that, we got lost on the way to the top of Tuc de Mulleres and I had to work hard to get to the top, which our path did not even lead over. A moment of fear pays off, because if nothing else, there was at least a beautiful view of Pico de Aneto from here. When I saw the long line of people stretching to the top of Aneto I was quite glad that I did not try it. The way down was pleasant because Pyrenean tourists do not eat blueberries. So I ate enough blueberries and I immediately felt better. From Hospital de Vielha, where we had a beer and chips, we were still waiting for the climb to Port de Rius. On the way up, a Pyrenean shepherd dog “Pastou” wanted to attack me. Fortunately, his owner stopped him, who was woken up from his sleep by his barking and my scream. We camped on the saddle by the lake and, exhausted, we fell asleep.
23/7/2012 – Day 20
Port de Rius – Ref. De Colomers
Waking up in the morning to a sunny day without a sigle cloud. Evka apparently didn’t sleep at all because of the cold. And I thought she was trying to cuddle up with me all night, but in her opinion I slept on her sleeping mat all night. While cooking soup in the morning, a runner ran past and five minutes later a smiling. Carlo walks just behind him. I catch up with him and head for the mountains. We walk past a beautiful plateau full of lakes and eye-catching panoramas, especially from the Collado d’Estany de Mar, where we all take pictures in a place that resembles paradise on earth. On the way down to the Restanca refuge, we pass an even more beautiful lake lined with steep rocks falling into the azure water. At the Restanca refuge, we each have two beers and chips. Then Carlo and I head towards the Col de Crestada pass. I have quite a bit of energy and we run like machines for passionate discussions comparing the Czech and Italian education systems. We wait on the saddle for Eva, who, when she arrived, said “today I’m sleeping in the hut”! I’m not against it and I’m looking forward to a huge dinner. The journey to the ref. de Colomers is easy. It’s located on the bank of the dam. I chat with Carlo outside and drink wine while we wait for dinner. I´m a gentleman so I give the last free place in the bed to Eva and I make myself comfortable on the floor in the dining room. I slept next to Carlo, who had a dream last night and punched me while he was sleeping 😀
24/7/2012 – Day 21
Ref. De Colomers – Salardú
Massacre reakfast literally in bed! A great wake-up call! Our destination today was the town of Salardú. The road only led downhill! I walked alone on the way because I wasn’t in the mood to talk. I preferred to take pictures and contemplate the views. In Salardú we stayed in the pleasant historical Refugi Rosta, which is also the Pyrenean Museum. After showering, getting dressed and washing our stinky laundry, we went shopping for the food. I bought fruit, vegetables, sweets, olives and the main thing was a half a kilo of chicken, which I then fried on the stove. One wouldn’t say how delicious the food was after three weeks of starvation… After lunch, Carlo and I decided to go to a Spanish hairdresser. I had a very progressive hairstyle idea – a bald head and a ponytail at the back – from now on they call me “Mohycan”. Can I finally feel the wind in my hair? No, on my skin! I’ll send a few more postcards, buy a bottle of wine and wait for yesterday – soup, pork, chocolate cake, etc. etc. I lie down so stuffed that I can’t even lie on my stomach. After dinner we go to a local bar for a shot of the local drink ORUJO DE HIERBAS, made from some Pyrenean grass. It tastes more like a worse Becher. Tonight I’m sleeping next to Carlo and I hope he doesn’t wake me up like yesterday 😀
25/7/2012 – Day 22
Salardú – Alos de Isil
It is true that I did not want to leave this picturesque Spanish town at all, but the expedition must go on! Killery climb in the even more killery heat to the Estany de Baciver. The lake near the local ski resort was almost a punishment. However, the swim in Estany de Baciver was more than pleasant. A few belly flops, a piece of salami to reduce the weight of the backpack and we were on our way! It came to climbing to the saddle, where I take on the role of the lead climber motivated by the fast Spanish women who wanted to catch up with us. The climb to the ridge was quite a challenge. Classic HRP – no path, steep and weathered rocks. The way down from the saddle is even more difficult than up. Several times I saw myself flying down because it was very difficult to keep my balance without poles. In the end, Carlo also made it down, despite the death in his eyes, but successfully. On the way down, the Catalan women threw a stone at us, which fortunately did not hit anyone. Well, the adventure ends when we learn that we are lost and after a short lunch break at the lake we make our way through the bushes to the right path of the road. We continue further through the scree to the Col de Clot de Moredo, which I conquer first. The journey to the village of Alos de Isil is already pleasant. Here, on the initiative of Carlo (thank you), they accommodate us in a barn and we also catch a female dog that tries to rob me of my precious food supplies. With a light submarine sickness of my fellow travelers, I fall asleep on the dusty ground…
26/7/2012 – Day 23
Alos de Isil – Noarre
Waking up in the barn with sore knees reminded me that another challenging day is here. In the morning, Eva would stab me with her venomous look again, from which we sensed something like – Come on, it’s already 8 o’clock!!! Well, I quickly swallow my breakfast and set off. The way up the hill was relatively pleasant, as we walked on the western side of the ridge and the rays of the yellow killer still hadn’t reached us yet. I had a nice naked swim at the lake and ate about half of my supplies. The energy deficit is showing, but I have to control myself, as at least another 7 days without the possibility of replenishing supplies could be a problem. On the way up to the Cornell saddle, a storm caught us. Beautiful clouds chased over the valley, but they were only beautiful until they bathed me. It’s clear that some clouds can’t stop me even for a moment. I put on my jacket and after a morning bath in my own sweat, I like to exchange it for a shower of rainwater. Fortunately, it’s just a light shower and on the way to the next saddle Curios and Calberanle there was only thunder, but not a single drop… We reached the Eric Pujol metal hut, which was unfortunately full of French people. We hear that a runner spent the night here. Also that he was talking about us, that we would never catch up with him and that he was better 😀 After a short shower, we decide to continue on and extend our Stage. When Carlo heard that, he almost burst into tears. The poor guy is a bit fixed on us. But after the shower, he got brave and decided to continue following us to the deserted village of Noarre, where I collected about a kilo of raspberries and made raspberry jam. I’ll offer it to the team in the morning, I wonder how it will be received. We meet a Belgian who is traveling alone. He is a violin maker and he recommends a recipe for nettle soup:
Nettle soup
1x bouillon
nettle stalks
mountain onion
mountain garlic
cook eat! Great idea, he must be hungry too…
27/7/2012 – Day 24
Noarre – Ref. de Cinquantenari
The marmalade for breakfast was a great success. Of course, Carlo handled it the most professionally. I had a mild diarrhea in the morning. I chat with Emanuel for a while. Eva ran away from us as usual at 7:30 and Carlo and I went to the Certascan saddle together. At the Certascan ref. we had lentil soup, sausage and salad = the whole menu (18eur, bastards). And it was all a mistake. With my packed bag, I didn’t feel like walking at all. I’m the last one and it wasn’t even that easy in 30 C. It seems to me that we’re lucky with the weather. Everywhere I look, clouds are chasing me, but only above me it’s clear and it burns me as much as it can. We reached the Estany de Romedo de Baix dam from where the HRP road leads down to the valley. The weather turned bad and it started to rain. The HRP road led me to a blind spot from which there was no escape. There were cliffs everywhere and no way out. I’m trying to cross the river to the other side, but my foot slipped and I slid my ass into the water like on a water slide. It’s a good thing I didn’t go any further and managed to brake, because a few meters further and I would not only be wet, but also flown into a waterfall 🙂 Well, I got back on the right path, where Carlo was already yelling and looking for me. Below was a pissed-off Evka, she obviously didn’t like the rain and desperately wanted to camp. I looked at the sky with an experienced opinion “We’ll have the sunshine in ten minutes!” And so it was! We continue on up the long hill to the Col de Sellente pass. From the saddle, an orange metal of ref. de Cinquantenari could be seen – our refuge today. When we arrived, Eva was crying from exhaustion. So I offer her tea and cook her soup. A couple of young Spanish are staying in the can with us, who wanted to borrow a stove. I don’t mind, but if I knew they were going to fry sausages with it for several hours, waste my gas and make a mess until morning, I would have changed my mind. Not only did they not offer a bite or a single beer, but also their leader the oldest guy was snoring like a lumberjack – a great night. In the morning, I shamefully steal their cookies for that, but I blame it on unbearable hunger!
28/7/2012 – Day 25
Ref. de Cinquantenari – No name Plateau
Waking up at 7:00. The way down was unpleasant, because I had diarrhea again, but I got used to it already. After three forced stops to empty myslef, we reached the valley down to the parking lot. The way up was long, but pleasant, I did my business several times and again begfore we climb to the ref. Biaiau, where Carlo is already waiting! From here, exhausted, we climb to the Port de Biaiau saddle, where I arrive really exhausted. Port de Biaiau is actually the border between Spain and Andorra. We are entering the third country on our expedition spread out on the peaks of the Pyrenees. We went down to the ref. Comapedrosa. I learned that Eva had a rough fight with Carlo on the way and he will not continue with us anymore. I hope to see you again Carlo! I will miss the Italian Spiderma 😀 At the ref. Comapedrosa we have beer, an omelette and Carlo stays here overnight. We still meet the people from Přerov, to whom I lend the GR11 guide for a slivovitz, because they arrived in the mountains unprepared, with only liters of slivovitz. They promise to send it to me when they arrive, but that hasn’t happened yet (even after several years). So I don’t know if they died in the mountains or just have forgotten about me. We descend into the valley, strenghtened by slivovitz, and then climb to a nameless plateau, where we set up camp and enjoyed the views of the Andorran Valley.
29/7/2012 – Day 26
No name Plateau – Cabana coms de Jan
We got up at six, but we talked until seven – none of us wanted to get up. It rained and lightning flashed during the night, and we just silently envied Carlo for his decision to stay under the roof. In the morning, the same breakfast again, which has been bothering me for the twenty-sixth day… After breakfast, we climb to the top of Pic de Clot de Cavall, where we are an hour earlier than the guide. From the top, we see Carlo climbing in the valley, so we don’t linger and continue into the next valley to the town of Llorts. A beautiful town that breathes a mountain atmosphere. We stop at a local restaurant and have lunch for an unchristian price. In the meantime, Carlo arrives, but just says hello and then continues on, probably offended that we ran away from him. With the pain in our Achilles tendons, we continue through the town of Serrat, where we get some ice cream and meet a poisonous snake. We appreciate the beauty of Andorra, and especially their approach to tourism and sports. Marked groomed paths everywhere are something you can only dream of in Spain. After an energy boost, we run up to the Collada dels Mener pass at lightning speed. I wait for Eva at the top for about half an hour and I start to worry that we have gone to the wrong pass, blinded by energy. Fortunately, but after a while she comes back quite tired. We go down into the valley to the Coms de Jan cabin – a small stone hut with metal beds and a lockable door and prepared muesli bars from previous generous visitors. We are here ourselves, so we cook and are happy for another night that we will be able to spend under a roof.
30/7/2012 – Day 27
No name Plateau – Etang de Couart
The previous night wasn´t worth it, my Achilles tendons were sore and some photographers came during the night and woke us up. Today’s journey was a torture due to the lack of energy, I’m already looking forward to the city as I’m really hungry. We climbed the Pont de Fontargente from Andorra to France. Exhausted at the crossroads under the climb, I lay around for a while and then Carlo caught up with me, but he doesn’t choose the same path, or rather he doesn’t want to exceed the daily volumes, or rather he wants to sleep in the hut and at the crossroads he chooses the path to the left down to the refuge while we choose the path up the climb to the Port de L’Albe saddle. The standard heat of around 30 C makes my journey difficult. From the saddle we went down to the Etany de Couart lake, where Eva ordered – Bivouac! According to the guide, it’s only three hours down to the town of L’Hospitalet d’Prés-Andorré and I can’t wait for a shower, food and bed…
31/7/2012 – Day 28
Etang de Couart – L´Hospitalet d´Prés-Andorré
The entire night the stone was torturing me under the tentI felt like a princess on a pea. Another night I didn’t sleep well because I was hungry…again… At 6:00 we were already on our feet, excited about the city, bed, bath, food, etc. etc. I broke the record for the size of the breakfast, I ate all my remaining supplies – 2 almonds 🙂 We managed the journey down along the really landscape-destroying pipeline from the hydro power plant. With an empty stomach we felt like we were in an excited state… The town of L’Hospitalet d’Prés-Andorré was nice in the center but it was ruined by a large hydroelectric power plant with its pipes destroying the surrounding hills. Even the large train station didn’t add much to it. But in this state the appearance of the town is really secondary. We are staying in the Gite d’Etape. We immediately use all the achievements of modern civilization and for the fourth time in 30 days I use the shower. Then we go to the local grocery store with long lists of what we need. Unfortunately, we are surprised by a drunk salesman with sortiment like in a deep communism. Unfortunately rotten fruit and vegetables and canned goods come in handy 🙂 Fortunately, the French are at least consistent with baguettes, so we have warm ones straight from the oven. I made a salad and drunk wine. I was particularly impressed by Mrs. Lilliane – the owner of Gite d’Etape, who is probably the best cook under the sun and I immediately praise her culinary skills. At dinner we meet the writer David van Reybrouck from Belgium, who has been going to HRP for over a month and is hiding in the Pyrenees from publicity. The evening with him was really beneficial and we finally had the opportunity to talk to a truly educated person. After Lillian’s performance, I couldn’t even lie down on my stomach in bed, I was probably this overfed for the first time in my life.
1/8/2012 – Day 29
L´Hospitalet d´Prés-Andorré –
In the morning, unfortunately/fortunately, Eva is unwell and we decide to stay at the local Gite d’Etape for another day and rest to recover. I think Eva wanted to stay here mainly because of the great food from Mrs. Lilliana, because I was also curious about what else the lady of the house has hidden in her stash. I drank 8 beers (0.33l) today. I rationalized the contents of my backpack and sewed up torn things. The highlight of the day was the dog and cat race and a demanding walk around the house to the shop and back. Otherwise, I can’t praise the dinner 100%. Thanks again to Mrs. Lilliana!!!
2/8/2012 – Day 30
L´Hospitalet d´Prés-Andorré – Bolquére
In the morning we got up at 5:30 in the dark and have a quick breakfast, during which I pet the cat for the last time. I also check one book, where I see “Cap Creus”, which I would like to see. It is at the end of the HRP, so if I am not too exhausted, I will go for it. We set off at 7:00 and climb to the ref. des Bésines hut. The road was boring and full of fog. At the Bésines hut we have a quick breakfast and quickly climb to the Col de Coume d’Angel. Here the sun was already shining. Eva complained that she was sick, and even shit a bit. I was worried about her so that a few days before the end of the expedition she would not tell me that she was ending. These negative feelings were balanced by the views of the valley!!! It was perhaps the most beautiful view I have ever seen from here. This place is indescribable. The view of Pic Carlit sloping down to Etany de Lanoux was truly breathtaking. We quickly passed by Lake Lanoux and decided not to climb Pic Carlit and to go around it. We descend to the huge dam (the largest water area I have seen in the Pyrenees so far) Lac des Bouillouses. Here we have beer and ice cream. David van Reybrouck leaves us a note saying that he was here and that he hopes to see us again. We continue and want to go all the way to Eynes, which means that we will have to do two and a half stages according to the guide. We did not reach Eynes, but we stopped in Bolquére. The local well-equipped supermarket provides us with cheap drinks and lots of sweet fruit.
3/8/2012 – Day 31
Bolquére – Ref. d’Ull de Ter
6:00 and we set out the tent. After the wine I slept great, but I didn’t regenerate much. For breakfast I eat cereal with condensed milk.. Eva got lost as usual with the help of the GPS, but after a while it took a good direction, namely to Eyne. A path on the flat, where we meet the GR10 sign, which says that it is only 155km to Banyuls sur Mer!!! Vall d’Eyne is probably completely endless with an elevation gain of more than 1100m. But we run it expertly in three hours. I put a healthy snack on the saddle – an apple, a biscuit, a Snickers bar, yoghurt and lots of water. I dried my soaked T-shirt, took photos, and by then Eva had already arrived, exhausted, and we continued on. The further I went, the more my back hurt, the longer the effort was already noticeable. The ridge walk to Pic de Noufonts was spectacular, and despite the strong wind we enjoyed it. The ridge walk went all the way to Ref. d’Ull de Ter, where we decided to stay for the night. Eva was whining again that she was sick and that she was going to give up. I tried to motivate her with two carafes of red wine and it worked. We had a hearty dinner and a few shots of whiskey with the wine. The pretty lady at the bar in Ref, d’Ull de Ter poured us truly royal portions of Whiskey! In the evening I peeled the dead skin off my feet and fell asleep next to a Spanish family.
4/8/2012 – Day 32
Ref. d’Ull de Ter – Ref. Des Cortales
6:00 and we climb out. After the wine I slept great, but I didn’t regenerate much. For breakfast I eat cereal with condensed milk and get down to business. Eva got lost as usual with the help of the GPS, but after a while it took a good direction, namely to Eyne. A path on the flat, where we meet the GR10 sign, which says that it is only 155km to Banyuls sur Mer!!! Vall d’Eyne is probably completely endless with an elevation gain of more than 1100m. But we run it expertly in three hours. I put a healthy snack on the saddle – an apple, a biscuit, a Snickers bar, yoghurt and lots of water. I dried my soaked T-shirt, took photos, and by then Eva had already arrived, exhausted, and we continued on. The further I went, the more my back hurt, the longer the effort was already noticeable. The ridge walk to Pic de Noufonts was spectacular, and despite the strong wind we enjoyed it. The ridge walk went all the way to Ref. d’Ull de Ter, where we decided to stay for the night. Eva was whining again that she was sick and that she was going to give up. I tried to motivate her with two carafes of red wine and it worked. We had a hearty dinner and a few shots of whiskey with the wine. The pretty lady at the bar in Ref, d’Ull de Ter poured us truly royal portions of Whiskey! In the evening I peeled the dead skin off my feet and fell asleep next to a Spanish family.
5/8/2012 – Den 33
Ref. Des Cortales – Valley Ribera del Terme
We get up early at 6:00 again so that the killer heat doesn’t catch us. We climb out of the tent with our heads above the clouds. These views were unforgettable! Unfortunately, after two hours of walking, the Mediterranean heat began. It is clear that sooner or later we will reach the sea. Along the way, there are a lot of raspberries along the way = free energy and it would be a sin not to use it. At the gite d’Etape we have a quick beer and a snack, but then it started. The unchristian heat was killing us and did not want to let us continue our journey at any cost. The steamy weather has really been the biggest obstacle on our journey so far. On the way to Arles-sur-tech, we meet people who live in the forest and build nice tree houses here. In Arles-sur-tech, which is 280 m above sea level, we have to take a forced break at noon, because 37C with a backpack weighing as much as it weighs is really an insurmountable obstacle. We sit in the middle of the square in the shade of a café and order Sangria. After a while, Frenchman Parnoulet, who was walking the GR10, joined us. We chat with him and around 6pm we set off for the next saddle. On the way, we stop at a bakery where Russian girl works, so we say hello to her and buy her a can of beer and some pastries. At 8 p.m. it is still 27 C. This made me decide to get up tomorrow at 5 a.m. to avoid the unpleasant temperatures and take a midday siesta. We were walking down from the saddle to the haunted house when, in the dark, a wild boar ran across our path a few times. Almost shitted myslef. We set up our tent and prefer to hide from the bloodthirsty grunting pigs 😀
6/8/2012 – Day 34
Valley Ribera del Terme – Church Saint-Martin de l´Albére
In the morning we actually get off our sleepingbags in the dark at 5:30 because of the fear of the heat. There was a storm at night and it rained, at least the pigs didn’t bother us, but on the other hand we woke up to a rainy day. The Pyrenees don’t want to give it to us for free these last few days. Whether it’s hot or cold, we fight the elements as best we can. It was quite pouring and we were wet even between our legs. Maybe better than 37 C. At noon the rain stopped and in the forest it was a pleasant 11 C. Then it cleared up and the road to Las Illas was pleasant on the flat with views of the sea. From Las Illas to Col de Perthus it was again suffering, every step I felt excruciating pain and in a sweat swimming pool shoes the pain was even more intense. On top of that I got lost and I turned one fleeting kilometer into about 5 real ones. Col de Petrhus – disgusting place – classic duty-free zone. I don’t know how this culture could survive even in the EU era, but it’s overcrowded here, everyone is buying electronics and booze. Very sick view and feeling, after 30 days of solitude, consumption cluture is killing me. I quickly run to the store for food and we look for a quiet part of town where we can take a siesta on the street. When the light stops, we want to run up the last hill on the HRP. Unfortunately, we only managed to run up half of it and we’re setting up camp. Tomorrow Banyuls!!! I can’t wait.
7/8/2012 – Day 35
Church Saint-Martin de l´Albére – Banyuls sur mer
We got up in the morning, climbed the Pic de Noulous, where Evka had prepared a surprise in the form of a summit beer. The view of Banyuls sur mer was breathtaking. I can’t believe that after 35 exhausting days we are within reach of our destination. We run downhill and I get lost several times and curse the Pyrenees one last time. On the way I still devour the local vineyards and enjoy the 35 C temperature for the last time. In the streets of Banyuls I am flooded with pleasant feelings and when I arrive at the beach I am finally sad that everything beautiful is behind us. I buy a few 9.2 % beers to celebrate – which are the strongest they have here and I wait for Eva. Unfortunately Eva does not come and does not even answer my phone. I find a socket on a tree and announce this news to all my loved ones. After the third ultra-strong beer Eva comes to say that she is already staying at the Canal Hotel. I follow her and then we go to lunch and buy each a liter of Sangria. In the evening we meet Carlo and go partying in the whirl of the Catalan street party in Banyuls. The next day we made a surprise for David van Reybrouck, who was supposed to arrive. We bought champagne with strawberries and waited for him at the streets or Banyuls. We swimm with him in the sea and in the evening we have fun again – no sex, no drugs, no rock and roll. The day After which we leave back home (un)satisfied.
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